среда, 11 июня 2014 г.

Tricky Jersey

There are many types of jersey fabric and there are many techniques to work it. But sometimes it is just doesn't work. 

The most tricky jersey that I have ever met is thin heavyweight jersey made of viscose.  Main properties of this kind of fabric is that it is very thin and very stretchable in all directions.  Sewing it on plain stitch machine, you have a 100% risk that all seams will stretch and in the end due to heavy weight of jersey finished garment will get some sizes bigger than expected.  

In order to avoid this is to make  3- or even better on 4-thread overlock stitches that can be done only a serger.  To avoid stretching on neckline and armholes can help iron-on interfacings like vlieseline bands. 

Why am I writing this? Well….

I wanted to make a jersey dress that I found in one old Burda. And knowing that Burda never ever corresponds to sizes stated in tables I decided to use my regular size that I wear. This was a huge mistake!  Of course Burda gives  recommendations what kind  of  fabric to use but never takes in consideration the stretching  property of jersey. Sizing and patterns are made for non-stratching fabrics, and if you get your regular size be prepared to get a huge piece!!!!

To my 44 size I had to choose size 40 but not the 44.  Pattern for jersey (red colour) must be smaller due to stretching properties of fabric. 

Hope my experience will be useful.

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